Only a handful of electronic systems' shocks are not available from third parties, either because they're an oddball size or because the tie-in to the vehicle electronics would result in a ride/ handling glitch if you installed nonelectronic replacements. The aftermarket manufacturers produce replacement shocks for just about everything, except some electronically controlled designs. New hardware is usually included with the shock. Generally, a socket will spin off the mounting hardware. That's okay, because the shocks themselves don't figure to be in much better shape. If the shock bushings' rubber is obviously cracked or badly distorted, you'll usually have to replace the shocks to get the new bushings. However, it will loosen again if you don't apply some thread-locking compound to the threads. There's typically a hex on the stud, so you can hold the stud while you tighten the nut.When a nut and bolt loosen, you may be able to just retighten. On some shocks there's a stud in a rubber bushing, and if it tears loose, you'll see and feel it turn as you try to tighten the nut. If you can turn the mounting nut or bolt at the top or bottom without much effort, the mounting is loose. The first thing to do is see if the mountings are loose. Removing shocks is usually straightforward, but getting under the vehicle and applying sufficient torque to remove large-diameter rusted-on fasteners can be daunting.īoth shock mountings on most late-model vehicles are in the underbody, so if you support the chassis on safety stands, you have access to the top and bottom.
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